Sardinia

AROUND CAGLIARI AND FURTHER AFIELD...

Sardinians are pretty picky about their beaches, and for good reason; the island has some of the best in the world. While the long expanse of Poetto beach in Cagliari is pretty great, there are even BETTER ones just around the corner. So if you have a little extra time to spend, check 'em out. Here are just a few of the ones we've sampled, along with some other attractions...

NORA

Half an hour west of the city (just past the town of Pula) is Nora, which was once the site of the biggest Phoenican (and later, Roman) settlements in Sardinia. The ruins are very well-preserved and spread out over several acres along the edge of the sea; after all that history and culture, you can reward yourself with the nearby beach! Under the Spanish watchtower Torre del Coltellazzo you'll find a long sandy beach with very clear water.

Jamie lagooning in Nora

CHIA

If you don't turn off to Nora and continue west for another twenty minutes or so, you'll find the locality of Chia which hosts a number of beautiful beaches. Making a choice between them is pretty difficult, so we'll tip you off to our favorite.

Su Giudeu is at the end of a long coastal stretch of sandy road winding through lagoons and farmland. There's a large car-park which charges €5 for the whole day; the beach is across the road. There are various beach bars, but the Arveschida does aperitivo (pre-dinner drinks and nibbles) from Thursday to Sunday; they also rent out chairs and umbrellas for the day.

Sunday evening in Chia

If you don’t turn off to Su Giudeu and continue for another ten kilometres towards Teulada, you'll reach the inlet of Tuerredda. The beach is surrounded by lentisk and juniper bushes and is considered one of the prettiest spots on the island, with some excellent snorkeling. If you go at the weekend, you should probably go early as the beach fills up quickly.

FOODIE TIP: On the way back to Cagliari after a day on the beach, drop into the town of Pula and try their famous pizza. We recommend Sa Macinera, Eleonora and Su Nuraghe, all on or just off the main square. Su Nuraghe also has a very well-renowned ice-cream shop; the fig and rice flavours are especially tasty!

Church in the square of Pula

VILLASIMIUS

Looking east... The small town of Villasimius is very popular with “Cagliaritani” looking to get out of the city during the summer. Villasimius is surrounded by several beaches; as in Chia, the choice is yours but we have a soft spot for Porto Giunco. After driving through the town, the road splits; take the right and drive past the tourist marina, then turn left at the rock saying “Il Giunco”. The unpaved road leads to pine woods where parking is free (but try and get under the shade if you can!).

Jamie in Porto Giunco, Villasimius

The first time I went to this beach, I thought it was something out of a children's book. The water was very still and clear as crystal, with the long sandy beach overlooked by a Spanish watchtower that you can hike up to.

The long walk back, Porto Giunco, Villasimius

If you're relying on public transport, the buses to Villasimius are quite frequent, traveling along a winding coastal road that was used in THE SPY WHO LOVED ME. The buses leave from the bus station in Via Roma. As Porto Giunco is a bit of a walk away from Villasimius (although there is a pedestrian promenade so you don’t have to stay on the road), you could do a lot worse then check out the nearest beach: Spiaggia di Simius. The water is lovely and there is a nice beachfront café/restaurant to get drinks and snacks.

Villasimius, best friends' stolen moment

FOODIE TIP: If you leave Villasimius in the evening, traffic along the coast road can sometimes be a little slow, especially at the weekend. If you want to get something to eat before you hit the road, we would advise you to check out Ristorante Stella d’Oro (on the main street) or Sa Tankitta (close to the main square), both for their delicious pasta and seafood... The grilled cuttlefish is recommended.

FURTHER AFIELD IN SARDINIA

ALGHERO

Chances are, many of you will be arriving into Alghero in the north-west of the island, the town a short (ten minute) bus or taxi ride from the airport. Although there is a shuttle bus leaving for Cagliari twice a day, you might find Alghero town and the surrounding province of Sassari a pleasant place to spend a couple of days before heading south. 

Anto in Alghero

The town of Alghero has become very popular with visitors from Ireland and England since Ryanair started running flights here in the 1990s. The most striking feature of the town is the Catalan city walls, built back when Alghero was ruled by the Crown of Aragon. Spanish/Catalan dominion ended in the early 18th century, but even today Algherese Catalan is still spoken. 

There are plenty of fine restaurants (many specialize in the local seafood; if anyone has a particular tip, please share them in the comments below!) in Alghero, particularly around the old town centre. At night, market stalls sprout up along the seaside fortified walls, selling all sorts of things. A fun place to stroll and pick up a late night digestif...

Apertif at sunset

Apart from the beach stretching out to the north, some of the notable attractions include Neptune's Grotto, an impressive stalactite cave at the foot of the Capo Caccia cliffs. You can get gain access through the goat's steps cut into the rock or join one of the boat tours (the latter will also provide time to go snorkeling!) leaving from the main port at Via Garibaldi.

BOSA

From the ticket office by the Giuseppe Manno public gardens in Alghero (Via Catalogna), one can buy bus tickets to Bosa in the south. Like Alghero, Bosa lies on Sardinia's western coast, but Bosa is smaller and arguably more picturesque.

Bosa, view from the castle

Nestled on the wide banks of the Temo river, the town is overlooked by hills and the medieval castle of Serravalle. Originally, the town was closer to the seaside, but after the construction of the castle several kilometers inland, the population followed suit.

The Bosa riverside

CALA GONONE 

If you have more than a few days to spare, there are few places in Sardinia I would recommend more highly than the seaside town of Cala Gonone in the middle of the eastern coast. The town is located on the bay of Orosei and is enclosed on three sides by steep mountains; access is only through a tunnel on the road from Dorgali.

The view south from Cala Gonone

The main attraction of Cala Gonone are the beaches to the south. The beaches back onto the famous Gennargentu National Park and are only accessible by boat. There are several types of excursions on offer, but the one we would go for takes the full day and costs about 35 euro without lunch and 65 with lunch (we did the latter; here's a TripAdvisor link http://www.tripadvisor.it/Attraction_Review-g608907-d4876015-Reviews-Pescaturismo_Delfino_I-Cala_Gonone_Dorgali_Province_of_Nuoro_Sardinia.html.). 

Catch of the day

You set off at 9am and travel to the southernmost beach, pausing only so that the sailors can check the fishing nets set down the previous evening!

Anto preparing for a post-lunch swim!

After a few hours on this beach, it's back on the boat, which will move on to a quiet lagoon where you can have a big lunch made from the morning's catch, accompanied by plenty of local wine! The rest of the day is spent hopping from one idyllic beach to the next, before returning to Cala Gonone. There is an excellent restaurant with a large terrace under a lemon tree called il Nuovo Gabbiano.

Heading back to Cala Gonone

CALA DOMESTICA

Back on the western coast, about 70km north-west of Cagliari, you can find the inlet beach of Cala Domestica. While the beach is a big favorite of families (if you're going in August, it's best to get there early in the morning), it is also particularly beloved by scuba divers and snorkelers. The best way of getting to Cala Domestica is to head to the town of Buggerru and follow the many signposts leading to the beach.

The path to Cala Domestica

SANT'ANTIOCO & CARLOFORTE

At the south-western tip of Sardinia lie the two islands of Sant'Antioco and San Pietro. Once, it was only possible to visit them by boat but now a bridge connects Sant'Antioco to mainland Sardinia. The only way to get to Carloforte (San Pietro's main town) is on the regular ferries leaving from Portoscuso (on the mainland) or Calasetta (on the northwest of Sant'Antioco). From Cagliari it's about a two/three hour drive, but this varies depending on whether you take the scenic coastal road (which includes some truly breathtaking cliffside views) or the motorway inland via Iglesias and Carbonia.

Sant'Antioco

Although still renowned for their fishing industries, both islands are probably better known now for their lovely beaches. San Pietro was colonized in the 18th century by the Republic of Genoa and to this day, many residents speak a variant of the Genoese dialect called Tabarchino. 

Unsurprisingly, both islands are renowned for their seafood.

OGLIASTRA

Apart from the Gennargentu National Park, Ogliastra has the distinction of being the least populated area in Italy, probably due to the fact that it is also one of the most mountainous. The scenery here is beautiful, and the region is also home to a very particular Sardinian pasta; culurgiones. These are filled with potato and herbs (usually sage or mint) along with pecorino cheese. Culurgiones vary from province to province, but the best are supposedly to be found here in Ogliastra.

NURAGHI

Dotted across the island are the remains of neolithic towers knowns as 'Nuraghe'. Today, the nuraghi have become synonymous with Sardinia and the unique Nuragic civilization, which existed here from the bronze age all the way up to the 2nd century AD. No consensus exists as to the true function of the nuraghi, but they tend to be built on hills with an excellent view of the surrounding countryside. Of the 7000 or so nuraghi still standing, the most important is probably the Su Nuraxi in Barumini, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997; only 60km north of Cagliari, this could be a very nice day trip!

Su Nuraxi, Barumini